Let Things Come and Go as They Happen

They are dear to me who run not after the pleasant

Nor away from the painful,

Grieve not over the past,

Nor lust for the future,

But let things come and go as they happen.

.
adapted from The Bhagavad Gita

translated by Eknath Easwaran

Four Harmonious Friends

Our Bhutanese tour guide Tshering Wangchuk tells us about an ancient painting of the "Four Harmonious Friends" restored on the wall of a dzong (temple) but also seen throughout Bhutan in homes, businesses, and for sale in souvenir shops. The elephant, monkey, rabbit, and bird symbolize interdependence, cooperation, and generosity. In modern Bhutan the king has said that "to achieve Gross National Happiness we need harmony and unity among the people."

Winter Winds

When winter winds replace the cold snap currently gripping Guerneville I'll hear these bamboo chimes from the pergola next to the bedroom I sleep in. And the prayers on the Tibetan flags nearby will blow blessings of good will and compassion into the world for the benefit of everyone.

Time Flies

My friend Linda says, "It's time to update your blog!" My cats, Sunshine and Angel, shown here cuddled up on the comforter on a VERY COLD morning, say, "Yes! Linda's right. What's your excuse?"

Well...uh...let me think about that. I'll get back to you tomorrow, OK?

Our Very Last Day in India

Contrary to the title of my previous entry, our last day in India was not in Cochin, but in Mumbai. I had thought we would be in Mumbai just long enough to go from the domestic airport to the international airport, but since we arrived in the morning and our flight to JFK was scheduled to leave after midnight, the tour company provided us with a "step-on" guide to show us this amazing city. We saw the infamous slums (much cleaner and organized that I imagined), Gandhi's home, the waterfront, parks, highrise buildings, and the unique lanudry operation where thousands of garments are picked up, washed, dried, and delivered--all by folks who are illiterate. "Nothing is ever lost," said our guide.

Along the way we "crashed" an outdoor wedding. That's our guide in the photo on the left taking us down the stairs to be welcomed as honored foreign guests. She also took is through elaborate security into the posh Mumbai Taj Hotel so we could see it and also use the restroom!

Our Last Day in India

Before one last cruise in the Cochin harbor this morning to see fishing vessels, the fish market (below), and the port with containers coming and going, we stopped in at The Dutch Palace, soon to be a World Heritage Site of UNESCO.



We also went to the Jewish Synagogue, built in 1658, and the spice market in the old quarter.

Last night we attended a performance of Kathakali, a storytelling technique once staged only for the ancient rulers of Kerala, but now preserved as a unique art form performed by several troupes in local venues.



Applying makeup takes over an hour.



The costumes are quite elaborate.



The repertory consists of episodes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata Hindu epics.

Early tomorrow morning we fly from Cochin to Mumbai (Bombay) an then to JFK in New York City on Air India. After that I transfer to a Delta flight to San Francisco via Atlanta.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Love to all
Allan
-- Posted from my iPhone

Along the shore

Our boats stopped so we could get off and explore a small village. We saw tiny shops selling local produce and other provisions.

Here is the back of a small truck with swans painted on the back license plate area.



We also dropped in on a new nursery school to say hello to the children.



-- Posted from my iPhone

My Boat's Crew

Engine man, captain, and chef.



-- Posted from my iPhone

Kerala

We are in the Indian state of Kerala cruising the backwaters south of Kochi (Cochin) on the Arabian Sea. Our group is using four houseboats. Two of them have sleeping quarters and a kitchen in the stern along with a sitting area at the bow.

Another larger boat has sleeping quarters plus a covered dining deck, and the fourth boat has sleeping quarters plus a lounge that accommodates all of our group--9 travelers.

The crew uses all of the boats for cooking parts of our meals, then brings the food together to serve us at dining time.






-- Posted from my iPhone

Last day in Varanasi

We leave for Delhi this afternoon and fly to Cochin via Mumbai (Bombay) tomorrow.

Here is a picture of a nearby (muddy) streetside market. Vendors use balance scales; buyers take produce away in cloth sacks large and small.



En route back to the hotel we saw two vans headed to the cremation fires on the bank of the Ganges. Each van had a wrapped body strapped to the roof. The shroud for one body was dark red, the other dark orange--both decorated with sequined borders and other metallic embellishments. Our guide told us that it is customary for family members to ride inside the van.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Morning at the Holy River

We arose before dawn and went to the Ganges again today--this time to observe sacred morning bathing.







-- Posted from my iPhone

Bal Ashram

I was able to spend a short time at an ashram in Varanasi for orphaned and abandoned children.



It is situated in an area where the roads were quite muddy due to recent unseasonal rain, but once through the gate one encounters an oasis of serenity.


Kamala welcomed me with tea and then a tour of the library/music room, kitchen, dining room, children's rooms, and staff/volunteer quarters. The children were already in their classrooms next door.




What a treat to see "in person" a nonprofit partner of the Center for Spiritual Living, Santa Rosa, where I serve on the board of trustees.

A small world: The tour group I am traveling with, Overseas Adventure Travel, uses the Radisson Hotel in Varanasi. Kamala told me in an e-mail that the ashram has a "friend," Gita Singh, in charge of the travel desk at the hotel. Imagine my surprise when Gita arranged for a driver and a hotel car to take me to the ashram with the compliments of the hotel (I tipped the driver, of course). Not only that, Gita is a director of Bal Ashram!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Varanasi at Night

Last night we took a rickshaw ride through the busy streets here, then descended the main steps to the Ganges for a quiet row boat ride to the place where bodies are cremated. The oarsmen took us back to the ghat for the nightly thanksgiving ceremony: bells, singing, incense, and candle light.



-- Posted from my iPhone

Festival Day in Khajuraho

Once a month Hindu believers come to the temple with small containers to receive holy Ganges water to take home.



It's a drizzly day on the grounds of the temple. This dog has found a cozy, dry place to rest.



--Posted from my iPhone

Praying is Like Coming Home

Indian legislator Meira Kymar, speaker of the Lok Sabha, was interviewed in New Delhi's Sunday Express. The interview is at indianexpress.com/thirdeye. Check it out!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Irrigation

A small farm en route to Khajuraho has two oxen powering a chain of buckets that pull water from an open 30 ft. well. The water goes into a series of irrigation ditches for the marigolds and vegetables the farmer grows.






-- Posted from my iPhone

Train from Agra Nov. 15

We're on the platform along with these local women waiting for a train to Jhansi to be followed by a long bus ride to Khajuraho via Alipura. After a night in the Khajuraho hotel we fly to Varanasi.



-- Posted from my iPhone

The Taj Mahal Nov. 14

Early morning mist surrounds the gardens and monument. We were in line before dawn, to be present when the entry doors first opened. Truly a wonder of the modern world.



-- Posted from my iPhone

Nov. 11 Hotel

"Opulent" is a word that applys to our hotel, Nahargarh, in Ranthambhor.




The place is only seven years old but it feels like an old hunting palace from the time of the maharajahs.




There are many pieces of antique furniture and many more reproductions. My guest room is practically as large as my entire home, "Rainbow Nest," in Guerneville!


Obviously a dramatic contrast to the local village teeming with people barely "getting by."

-- Posted from my iPhone

Nov. 10 Jaipur...

...was once called Rajahstan and this is the palace of the Rajah, now mostly a museum.




There is still a Rajah living here and this is the shield above his license plate. The vehicle is a Tata SUV.




-- Posted from my iPhone

Nov. 9 Doorman

Here is the doorman of our hotel in Jaipur.


-- Posted from my iPhone

Baby Taj and the Real Thing

We arrived in Agra today and before checking into our hotel we paid a visit Itmad Ud Daulah. It is a tomb that was designed by a daughter in the early 17th century to honor her parents. Construction took place between 1622 and 1628. As our guide said, "It is a very beautiful jewel box."



Right after that we drove to see the rear view of the Taj Mahal from across the river. A real treat! Tomorrow we see it from the front through the main entrance!

Nov. 13 Rain!

Imagine sleeping in a leaky tent "in the middle of nowhere." Actually we were on the outskirts of a small village and the dozen or so tents are meant to provide a pleasant alternative to hotel living. Unfortunately these unique accommodations are not intended for wet weather so it was a night of avoiding the drops and waiting for our morning departure.


-- Posted from my iPhone

Nov. 7 Incense

This girl is molding incense cylinders out of cow dung mixed with herbs, sandalwood dust, ghee, and other ingredients. The cylinders are placed on trays to dry on the sun, then packaged for sale. She and dozens of other local girls are at a guru's barn that gives refuge to cows. Income from incense sales supports their mission. We stopped here en route to Ranthambore.


-- Posted from my iPhone

Nov. 8 Hindu Worship

Hard to see inside, but this is Shri Lakshmi Narayan Temple in Jaipur. We came here for service at sunset and, as part of the ceremony, after much chanting by the Hindu officiants, we were all sprinkled with holy Ganges water!



-- Posted from my iPhone

Nov. 12 Morning Prayers

Even though it is a drizzly morning, these children are saying prayers on the roof of their small village school near Ranthambhor. They do this at the start of each day. Our tour company, Overseas Adventure Travels suppports this school through its foundation.





-- Posted from my iPhone

Safari

We went on an early morning safai today into the Ranthambhore forest. We rode in an open air vehicle and saw monkeys, several kinds of deer, parrots, kingfishers, and other birds. Our prize was a tiger! Our onboard naturalist told us that the big cat we saw is a 500 pound male tiger, four years old, who was making the rounds of his territory "marking" it as he went along. I took my camera on the safari, but I wasn't able to get a good picture. You'll just have to take my word for it--it was a thrilling sight that is not experienced by every safari. We were among the lucky ones!

I'll post more pictures once we get to Agra where I will once again have a wi-fi connection to use. Here in Ranthambhore there is only broadband. No TV in the rooms, which I find refreshing as it allows for quiet contemplation time for everybody as well as time to catch up on our reading.

Love to all,
Allan

Sheesh Mahal

A mirrored room in the winter house at Amer Palace. Tiny mirrors in the walls and ceiling.


-- Posted from my iPhone

Amer Fort/Palace

Entrance and interior courtyard of Amer Fort/Palace in Jaipur, dating from the 16th century.







-- Posted from my iPhone

Camels...

...and carts on the freeway to Jaipur.


-- Posted from my iPhone

Qutb Minar (tower)

Begun in the 12th century, this beautiful victory tower is around 240 ft. high. At its base is the site of India's first mosque. The tower is considered by many to be the symbol of New Delhi.



Below is a view of one of the many ruins at this UNESCO World Heritage Site.





-- Posted from my iPhone

Chandi Chowk Bazaar

Riding a rickshaw through narrow lanes in Delhi where there is a jumble of tangled wires overhead and beautiful merchandise for sale along the way.





-- Posted from my iPhone

Baba Sahib Sikh Temple

So many spiritual paths! This is one place in Delhi where Sikhs worship, men in turbans that contain their hair which has never been cut. They believe in One God, the God of Grace. Life is not sinful in origin because it emanates from a pure Source, in which the True One abides. From the visitor's brochure: "Sikhism does not accept the ideology of pessimism. It advocates optimism and hope."


-- Posted from my iPhone

Mosque

These men are saying prayers in Jama Mosque, Delhi, the oldest mosque in India, built in 1656.


-- Posted from my iPhone

Prayer wheel

This woman in Bhutan is holding a prayer wheel that has a small chain and weight attaced to it. There is a prayer embossed on the surface of the hollow cylinder and inside is a roll of paper with many prayers printed on it in tiny writing. As she twirls the wheel clockwise the prayers go out to the universe.

-- Posted from my iPhone

One last picture from Bhutan

Dochula Pass at 10,000 ft. Bhutan's northern Himalayan border with Tibet in the background.


-- Posted from my iPhone

More Beauty in Bhutan

Above is a scene in Punakha with some Himalayan mountain snow in the far distance. Below is the oldest temple in Buthan, built in 659, located in the town of Paro.



We leave for Delhi early Wednesday morning. I hate to bid Bhutan goodbye.

-- Posted from my iPhone